Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006

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• I think this is a much stronger suit because the subtle check is more Bondian and more timeless than a multi-coloured stripe.
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• Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant.
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• Lindy Hemming wanted to show off Craig’s physique, so she put him in trim swim trunks with little coverage and turned him into a sex symbol in a way James Bond never was before.
• The short-sleeve shirt has interesting detailing, including shoulder straps.
• I think the outfit is still a success, it would simply be if others in the scene dressed down as much as Bond did.

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• The updated trim fit turned the polo into a fresh look, while the unique mesh knit with a self collar instead of a ribbed collar also removed many of the garment’s stodgy connotations.
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• The three-piece navy track stripe suit for the film’s final scene is a wonderful choice for showing Bond’s maturity at the end of the film.

Other than the first suit, the rest of the suits are made by Brioni, all in the same cut. The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance. Medium-width high-gorge lapels roll just through the top button, showing the button but opening the jacket down to the middle button.

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• The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate.
• Though most of the t-shirts are luxurious t-shirts from Sunspel, that luxury doesn’t translate to an appropriate look for Bond.
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While long sleeves makes sense early in the story, because the sleeves are equally long at the end of the film it means that the sleeve length was not chosen for narrative reasons. The evening shirt from Turnbull & Asser is one of the best shirts of the series and brings a needed English touch to this outfit. The shirt has no fancy front bib and instead is made entirely out of a special waffle weave cotton to distinguish it from an ordinary white shirt. It has a fly placket, folded on both side so the shirt has an elegant symmetrical front. It has a point collar with a significant amount of tie space to comfortably fit the bow tie. These jackpots can soar to over $1,000,000, making every spin a potential ticket to life-changing rewards.

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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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Brosnan’s suits mostly had double vents, and it’s odd that wasn’t continued for Craig. The first suit in Casino Royale stands apart from the rest in the film, being made in England rather than Brioni. This navy linen suit, worn for the toilet fight and a cut scene in Pakistan, is difficult to see in the film and difficult to properly judge. It has a trendy mid 2000s English cut, with two buttons in a high stance and sporty details like swelled edges. The suit is difficult to judge on Craig because he’s always moving and wears the jacket unbuttoned. It looks good for how it moves in the film and for placing Bond in a suit for the makeshift gun barrel sequence.

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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.

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The Madagascar outfit has many fans, but I find that it’s one of the weakest looks of the Bond series. The loud Liberty-print shirt is uncharacteristic for Bond and makes him stand out too much in the crowd for it to be a practical choice. He draws more attention to himself wearing this shirt than his fellow agent does touching his ear. Layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt was trendy at the time, but I find the look unnecessarily complicated, and the mostly unbuttoned shirt looks sloppy. Had he just worn the shirt over his bare chest and buttoned the shirt, I think he would have looked much neater.

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The shawl-collar cardigan and the checked trousers are worn together as well as with other items. The light blue linen shirt has a strong two-button collar that looks good on Craig unbuttoned, but it is let down with short sleeves. A linen shirt with long sleeves would not wear much differently in hot weather, yet it would look much better under a suit jacket.

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